FEB 24, 2024

The town of Jackson is about 25 minutes from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort at Teton Village. People tend to prefer staying in one or the other: serious skiers will want first tracks when they roll out of bed, whereas those who come for the western town vibes or don’t want to ski every day will like the accessibility of a true walking town with good restaurants, cute shops and galleries. (Though several of the hotels do run daily mountain shuttles.) While Jackson has seen a steady wave of gentrification over the last decade, it still retains its cowboy soul—as Christian Burch, co-owner of Mountain Dandy and other beloved local boutiques told me five years ago, “I always said there will never be a Gucci on the town square. I hope I’m right.” (When I recently reminded him of it, he wrote, “I think I might take the word ‘never’ out of my quote at this point!”) That said, Jackson is full of rustic charm and rugged, Teton beauty in both winter and summer, and has a way of making converts who never leave. Here are a few favorite addresses of the converted to get you started. —A.P.

Our Contributors

Lela Rose is a fashion designer originally from Texas who is based between New York City and Jackson Hole, where she recently opened a new boutique. 

Christian Burch has lived in Jackson since 1994, and together with his partner John Frechette have reshaped the town’s retail scene, with their stylish family of artisan-focused shops including Mountain Dandy, Made, M and Mursell’s. 

Kathryn Brackenridge transplanted here 20 years ago from the East Coast, working all sectors including a decade of running PR for Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and most recently as the former executive director of The Jackson Hole Travel and Tourism Board. 

Emily Tess Katz is a television producer and the Senior Director of Development at Wavelength Productions. She lives in Tribeca but is a burgeoning expert on the American West. 

Olivia Lopez is a frequent flier based between Los Angeles and New York. She is the host of “The Art of Travel” podcast and founder of Bon Weekender, a full-service creative studio. 

Adam Rapoport, a longtime magazine editor, directs content for brands, including Powered by People, a wholesale platform that connects a world of sustainable makers with retailers in North America.

Alex Postman is deputy editor of Yolo Journal.

STAY

Jackson 

Hotel Jackson - Right in the heart of town, with spacious rooms with fireplaces, a cozy lounge, hot tub on the roof with mountain views, and shuttles to the ski mountain. We once missed the shuttle two years ago and they drove us there in their house car, a Land Rover Defender. Their transport means you not only don’t have to pay to rent a car, you don’t have to search for parking spaces at the mountain. —Emily Tess Katz

The Anvil - Convenient to town with a hipster-edge. This is a very affordable option – January dates were under $200 a night, and it houses the restaurant Glorietta downstairs. —Emily Tess Katz. Built over a former blacksmith shop, it was transformed by Brooklyn-based design firm Studio Tack with a wood-burning stove in the lobby and an excellent “mercantile.” The rooms are small and cute (cast iron beds, camp blankets), though the walls were a little thin. They run a good excursion service, Anvil Explorers Club, if you’re up for snowshoeing or snowmobiling. —Alex Postman

The Cloudveil - Fashionable hotel in a cute part of town with lots of shops and restaurants. Has a shuttle to the mountain and is priced in the $600-$800 vicinity during high ski season. —Emily Tess Katz. In town, new and very nice. I wouldn’t want to be in town in the winter, but some people do! —Lela Rose. The Cloudveil hits all the marks and couldn't be more centrally located. Love going here for a bistro drink and taking it to a tucked-away part of the lobby. —Kathryn Brackenridge

The Virginian Lodge, - Locally referred to as “the Virg”, it recently got a cool facelift while maintaining original character. The beloved Billy’s Burger (a former Town Square institution) recently opened up shop there, too. —Kathryn Brackenridge

Mountain Modern Motel  - Alpine-themed simple rooms a short walk from town. —Emily Tess Katz

Teton Village

Caldera House - All-suites luxury accommodations with a gorgeous lobby, ski room – and snacks galore.- Emily Tess Katz. Very $$ but on-mountain and very nice. —Lela Rose. Cozy, chic and clubby. Ideal if you’re in a big group, can split the cost, and want to be steps from the lifts! (See full review above.) —Alex Postman

The Four Seasons - Exactly what you’d expect from the name, with a gorgeous hot tub for defrosting. —Emily Tess Katz. Great location, if a little generic-luxe inside. Their Handle Bar pub is a nice spot for après. —Alex Postman 

Alpenhof - Swiss-inspired hotel right at the mountain’s base. With new ownership, the rooms will soon be getting a tune-up, but in the meantime it’s the spot to après if you’re wanting fondue. —Emily Tess Katz. Unless you’re footing a sizable bill at Caldera House, you can’t possibly get closer to the center and heart of it all—the Tram with the much-loved, longstanding Teton Village institution. The Swiss-inspired chalet hotel, bistro and bar is one to watch with thoughtful new ownership poised to give it a proper shine with fitting, modern twists on tradition. —Kathryn Brackenridge

Sister properties Teton Mountain Lodge, for classic Alpine accommodations meeting current ski needs, is especially great for families and offers a good juxtaposition to adjacent Hotel Terra for more contemporary taste. Better bang for the buck in the higher-end slopeside category and conveniently located. —Kathryn Brackenridge

Teton Village vacation rentals - Run the gamut from small and retro to grand and fabulous, are always fun, and an optimal down-home option for dedicated ski groups and families. Jackson Hole Resort Reservations for the best inventory.—Kathryn Brackenridge

Between & Further Afield

The Wildflower Lodge - This was a B&B and I think they’re now renting out the whole place. It’s great in that it’s tucked away and not in a touristy spot. —Lela Rose

Amangani - Not near the mountain nor town, but a breathtaking property with gorgeous amenities. —Emily Tess Katz. Undoubtedly the best view in town outside of the slopes, a sunset drink here is not to miss. —Olivia Lopez. I stayed here about 5 years ago and while it’s in a beautiful spot, it’s a bit inconvenient to both town and mountain, and the zen vibes also felt a little dated. —Alex Postman.  I’m not a big fan of the Amangani location, but it’s got great views. —Lela Rose

Turpin Meadow Ranch - Restored historic guest ranch in the hour-north stunner Buffalo Valley is beautifully done and well operated, especially for a hard-to-come-by winter guest ranch experience. Worth a summer visit as well for horseback riding and blue-ribbon fishing. —Kathryn Brackenridge

EAT & DRINK

Jackson

Persephone Bakery/Persephone West Bank - The coziest cafe in town for hot beverages, baked goods, and a delicious bowl of coq au vin. —Olivia Lopez. Coffee shop in town with fresh-made pastries and a lunch menu worth prioritizing. Line will be out the door, but moves quickly. —Emily Tess Katz. Persephone West Bank (we call the west side of the Snake River the West Bank) offers similar treats and food to the Persephone in town, but it has long banquettes and a huge gallery wall that we installed for them just before they opened. —Christian Burch. Great bakery and the place for lunch. I prefer the West Bank location as it’s less crowded. —Lela Rose

Picnic - When the line is out the door at Persephone Bakery, those in the know head to its offshoot, Picnic. It’s a bright, airy space with plenty of seating, a full menu of healthy-ish salads, sandwiches and bowls and, yes, all of the amazing pastries its parent made famous. —Adam Rapoport

Healthy Being Cafe & Juicery - Another lunch spot next to Persephone in town. All vegan and delicious! —Lela Rose

Snake River Grill - A Jackson Hole institution which also feels very JH —Lela Rose. Every Saturday, my partner, John, and I go to the Snake River Grill. It's been here for 26 years. Be sure to order the new and improved Potato Pancake. The SRG has the nicest and most knowledgeable staff in town. —Christian Burch

Coelette - Ralph Lauren-vibes with pretty good food and excellent martinis. —Emily Tess Katz. We like to take visiting friends and family to Coelette. John and I worked with the owners on the interiors of the 110-year-old cabin. We are especially proud of the bar, which has an angel from an old Macy's Christmas window display presiding over it...we call it the Patron Saint of Coelette. —Christian Burch

Glorietta - A relaxed trattoria with handmade pasta and woodfired dishes that are kind of spaghetti western—think mafaldine pasta with pheasant and elk bolognese. —Alex Postman. Aside from the on-point food and legit Euro wine list, Glorietta nailed an aesthetic that is sorta The Palm meets your average Joe Italian East Coast restaurant. Very spirited and cozy. Perfectly crafted coupe cocktails that are less offered in smaller towns, like my personal favorite, Pisco Sour, makes what inevitably ends up being a somehow surprisingly largish bill…palatable. —Kathryn Brackenridge

Gun Barrel Steakhouse - Come for the bison taxidermy, stay for the steaks. —Olivia Lopez

Kampai - Better-than-expected omakase with the most fun design features. —Emily Tess Katz. In town and very high quality sushi. —Lela Rose

You can't go wrong with your choice for sushi in this town. King Sushi, Kampai and Sudachi are all great spots for a delicious meal. For a small Wyoming town, we do sushi and Thai food well. —Christian Burch. 

King Sushi - Set in a cozy log cabin with a counter and just a handful of tables, you place your order on a card for some of the freshest, most flamboyant looking rolls, like the Theo (tempura asparagus, avocado, Wagyu and garlic truffle teriyaki). Great cocktails, too. —Alex Postman. King owns its name in every respect for bringing the best sushi experience to the Tetons, setting a precedent locally with its relaxed, creative approach, happy, cozy vibe and killer fish. Be sure to plan ahead and best of luck getting a reservation. Kindness at the door goes a long way with this seasoned-pro staff, chef and crew. -Kathryn Brackenridge 

Teton Tiger - From the team at beloved Teton Thai (in Teton Village), a chill pan-Asian spot in town that draws a young crowd. —Emily Tess Katz

Million Dollar Cowboy Bar - A Jackson Hole institution, where you can catch locals and weekend travelers swaying out to live music. The energy is high-spirited and you'll catch cowboys and their gallon hats letting loose on the dance floor. —Olivia Lopez. Wouldn’t go for the food but a must for après ski or après dinner! —Emily Tess Katz.  I love this place and it’s a must go! Great bands, country western dancing, decor is fabulous and old school. —Lela Rose

Cutty's - Is such a local favorite that I'm hesitant to share it here...but I'm going to anyway. It's a bar that does nothing to attract tourists...nothing kitschy, nothing fancy, nothing western...but along with beer and cocktails, they offer a variety of cheese steaks, pizzas and calzones. Don't wear your flat-brim hats or carry your Stanley cups in here. This is the real Jackson, Wyoming deal. —Christian Burch

The OG Down on Glenn (DOG) for walk-up window, spicy meat and veggie burritos caters to all walks of life. Word has it that worker bees there pull in $700 a day in tips—probably for good reason. Major gut bomb goes well after a morning ski at downtown Snow King. —Kathryn Brackenridge

Teton Village

Bodega - After a day of spring skiing, there are few things better than posting up outside here, a gas station-slash-snackery at the base of the mountain. Get the fried chicken sandwich and the daily “sloshie” (they pack a punch) and remind yourself how lucky you are. —Adam Rapoport

Corsa - A nod to the trattorias of the Italian Alps, Corsa is an Italian eatery located right in Teton Village, so it's easy to swoop in for an après-ski. —Olivia Lopez. The Italian restaurant at the Caldera House had good food and a lovely scene. —Lela Rose

Teton Thai -  You can’t ski Jackson without going to Teton Thai. Owners Sam and Suchada run the most fun, bustling, delicious restaurant in Teton Village. Dinner is always jamming, so while you’re waiting, order yourself a Mai Thai. Just don’t order two. (Pro tip: When you need a break from skiing, go for a chill lunch and avoid the crowds.) —Adam Rapoport

Mangy Moose - Rowdy après ski at the base of the mountain. —Emily Tess Katz. Super fun après scene in a two-level, two bar space for live music and local IPAs. —Alex Postman

Handle Bar - In the Four Seasons, an après spot with elevated food. —Emily Tess Katz

The Grill at Amangani - We had a transcendent dinner here in a wood-paneled dining room filled with a buzzing crowd, including a massive Saint Bernard. —Emily Tess Katz

SHOP

New West Knife Works - Store in town that makes knives just outside of Jackson. Great design. —Lela Rose. A top-of-the-line knife shop with some of the most knowledgeable salespeople I’ve ever met. —Emily Tess Katz

Mountain Dandy - Great home store for fun pieces, tabletop, furniture, etc. —Lela Rose. Mountain Dandy has a great selection of candles, coffee table books, unique furniture and souvenirs. —Emily Tess Katz

Made - A delightful curation of mountain-themed homewares and gifts (leather coasters, Wyoming flag blankets) from Christian Burch and John Frechette of Mountain Dandy. Don’t leave without stopping into their Mursell’s Sweet Shop across the way in Gaslight Alley, which is stocked with all sorts of European and retro candy brands. —Alex Postman

Lela Rose Ranch - We just opened a store a year ago in Wilson (in between town & village). It’s a modern take on chic western wear and one-of-a-kind vintage finds. —Lela Rose

Workshop - Unassumingly tucked behind my favorite, Healthy Being, is an utterly adorable world in and of itself set in a standalone, classic Jackson cabin. The artist and owner, Susan Flemming, has beautiful jewelry, her own, along with locally decorative tabletop and pick-up items. Funnily enough, the rather established Brooklyn-born brand, Coral & Tusk, has a western outpost presence here as well. —Kathryn Brackenridge

Womenfolk - This is a tiny store that does consignment. Kind of fun to poke around in. —Lela Rose. Easy to pick something up the minute you walk through the door. And owner Greer Fried sets the precedent with her effortless style and eye. —Kathryn Brackenridge

Grit - Great men’s store in town. —Lela Rose

JW Bennett - If you don’t own a custom felt cowboy hat, you’re going to want to change that! Made in Jackson Hole, you can spot one of JW Bennett’s signature hats on people all over town with the Tetons embroidered on the side. Her little shop is a delight and offers lots of personalization options. —Emily Tess Katz

Kemo Sabe - A great spot for hats and western wear, which came to town in 2022 and is open until 9 pm. —Emily Tess Katz

Maya Frodeman Gallery - This just changed its name from Tayloe Piggott Gallery. Great jewelry and art. —Lela Rose. The crème de la crème gallery, they just opened a second location on West Bank behind Chieftains and Persephone. —Kathryn Brackenridge

Wilson Backcountry Sports - A favorite institution of an outfitter. Best of the best brands and goods for skiing, biking and outdoor all  packed into the best little ski shop located at the base of Teton Pass.—Kathryn Brackenridge

Hoback Sports - Where my husband bought his ski boots. The staff made sure he didn’t leave without heat-molding them and custom-inserts–and it made skiing significantly more comfortable for him and his big feet. Great option for renting if staying in town to save you a trip to the mountain. —Emily Tess Katz

Teton Village’s Rodeo is about as on-point of a resource for putting together sophisticated mountain looks if you need to pick up chic brands without a budget. Cool art on the walls for sale, too. —Kathryn Brackenridge

OUTDOORSY BEYOND SKIING

Elk Refuge sleigh ride - Definitely touristy, but also fun if you’re not wanting to ski the whole time. —Lela Rose. A fun option with kids if you’re taking a day off from the slopes. —Alex Postman

There is a small park by the Snake River Bridge called R Park. The land was donated by a family to the Jackson Hole Land Trust, and is now a public park that has a small swimming and paddling pond, short little trails, and a large wooden troll sculpture by Thomas Dambo and sponsored by Jackson Hole Public Art. —Christian Burch

Nordic ski at Turpin Meadow Ranch - There is a great lodge here and the best views of Moran and the Tetons. It’s definitely a drive and all day adventure, but the lodge is great with a good restaurant and the views are incredible! —Lela Rose

Located smack in front of the stunner Teton range, Art Shop is a new endeavor from longtime gallerist Alex Keenan Pope. The simplicity and sophistication of the curated, individually crafted local art matches the beauty of its backdrop, and is a pleasant surprise within the well-known Moose/Dornan’s outpost. Cross-country ski in Grand Teton National Park and shop there before posting at the neighboring Dornan’s Bar, while taking in the mesmerizing “trinity group”—the three highest peaks in the Tetons. A winterlong welcome reprieve, but do check hours in this sleepier part of town. —Kathryn Brackenridge

High Mountain Heli - If you’re looking for deep powder and a heli-skiing adventure, it’s incredible to ski ranges you can’t access otherwise. —Lela Rose

Just shy of Jackson, Astoria Hot Springs is a newer addition for an accessible, memorable soak. —Kathryn Brackenridge

Snowmobile to Granite Hot Springs. This is not something I would ever normally do! But someone talked me into it and it was so fun. I got outfitted in a snowsuit through Togwotee Adventures and drove a snowmobile 10 miles through the Gros Ventre Mountain Range and soaking to a hot-springs pool. Ecotour Adventures can set you up to ski or snowshoe through Teton National Forest. —Alex Postman 

Add-ons to the outdoor mecca worth exploring include the burgeoning fat biking scene, Yellowstone winter snowcoach tours for wildlife spotting and scenery, EXUM for backcountry skiing Grand Teton National Park, and hitting up the beloved, downtown local, newly-expanded Snow King Mountain, for the absolute best views in this valley. Venturing over to Grand Targhee, WY, for even one day of lift service and/or quality cat skiing is well worth the hour trip over Teton Pass. Exploring Jackson’s booming sister/bedroom communities of Victor and Driggs, Idaho, for ever-emerging, off-the-radar food, retail, and general culture is worth checking out. —Kathryn Brackenridge

SKI NAVIGATOR: Sloane Andrews Bergine

Originally from Nashville and Connecticut, Sloane has lived in Wyoming since the 1990s, and for many of those years has worked as an in-demand ski instructor at Jackson Hole’s Mountain Sports School. I got a great lesson from her a few years back (that’s me snapped by Sloane, above) and improved so much in a day, thanks to her yes-you-really-can-do-this energy. (In the summers, she works as a flyfishing guide in the area.) Here are a few of her hacks and tips for navigating the mountain. —A.P.

Jackson Hole has a reputation for being mainly for experts – has that changed?

It’s definitely changing, partly because of the new learning center at Solitude Station. The reality is we only have so much beginner terrain, about 6% of the mountain, but we’re trying to make that beginner and intermediate terrain more accessible and grooming more and more trails. We can’t really change the physical layout of the mountain. But we’re doing our darndest to try.

Are the double blues here comparable to blacks everywhere else?
Our double blues are steep enough that snow cats have problems grooming them. Yes, they have a pretty good pitch to them.

Where to start and where to finish for the perfect ski day on the mountain?

I would say go up the gondola and move to your (the skier’s) right, towards the tram, in that direction, then follow the sun in the afternoon and work your way back towards Casper and Après Vous. Those are beautiful sunny spots. But know that the right-hand side of the mountain is more advanced terrain.

Which lift tends to be the least crowded if you want to fit in a lot of runs?

Teton Chairlift has a lot of bang for your buck as far as terrain and less-crowded choices. And I think the sleeper on the mountain that everybody uses for transportation but doesn’t lap it is the Bridger Gondola. Bridger has 2,700 vertical feet and countless ways to come down, whether it’s cruising groomed blues, or steep shots of powder through the trees.

What’s the best long groomer that is also not the most crowded?

Après Vous.

Secret powder pockets?

Well I can’t tell you that, it won’t be a secret! But again, I think again there are some stashes off the gondola that people are not taking advantage of because they’re thinking they have to go over to Thunder and Sublet to get the powder. If you’re on the gondola and you’re looking out the window, there’s space that’s wide open that’s full of powder.

Places to eat on the mountain that are somewhat off-radar?

Locals tend to sneak into Southcable Café [at Caldera House] for a slice of pizza—it’s a huge slice, a great meal, so that's a fantastic way to go for a quick sit under the heat lamp before getting back out on the mountain. And then we’re also doing those “bear dogs” in the new building near Sublet. If it’s a nice day, you can sit outside at picnic tables and Adirondack chairs and in no time get a brat that’s locally made and get back out on the slopes for the hard chargers.

Any little hot chocolate stands or warming stations?

Not really. At the top of the gondola they’ve got your different espressos and you can also get homemade marshmallows.

Can you get up to Corbet’s Couloir [one of the steepest slopes in the US] just to see it, not ski it?

Absolutely. If you have a regular ski lift ticket, you can head up the tram and take it right back down, or you can get a sightseeing ticket. Even if one of your family members isn’t skiing or you’re taking a day off, you can get a sightseeing ticket, jump on the tram and head up, have a waffle at Corbet’s Cabin, and ride it back down.

Booking lessons: How can we request you? And we book half days and full days?

We mainly do full day and it’s for the instructors, but also for the clients, because you can do what you want—meet early, late, ski through lunch. Before you book, though, tell us a little bit about yourself and let us know what you’re looking for—if you’re hard-charging or if you want somebody patient or if you want someone fun for your kids. Yes, you can request me through ski school, but we have over 600 instructors and can fine tune the best match. The other thing about booking lessons is that instructors and guides can get up on the early gondola and tram. If it’s a powder day, it’s great to get up there early!